Safety – Life En Route

Jim Hogg Park

by James on July 8, 2018 0 Comments

We’ve been to Jim Hogg Park a number of times, in fact, it’s where we tore the roof of our RV open on a low hanging tree branch a couple years ago, and I believe that was the last time we went. Jim Hogg Park is on Lake Georgetown, and is a Army COE park. It is part of a cluster of COE parks around the lake, including Cedar Breaks Park, which is where we launched the boat for the first two outings. Jim Hogg Park has more camping accommodations, including some double sites, one of which (Site S008) we booked one for a long 07/04 holiday weekend. The double sites with screen shelters run $40/night.

It has a nice cabin on the door side of the RV that is screened in with a ceiling fan and light, and generous parking pad that is large enough to fit our truck and RV on at least twice. The boat ramp is decent (three lanes, if I remember correctly) but the docks are almost entirely out of the water right now, with only one partially submerged and barely enough to be usable. It’s the furthest dock from the ramp, and a decently long walk between them. We launched the boat and twice on our trip, and probably spent 8-10 hours total on the water with Maggie and Violet (Max is too old to sit in a hot boat and doesn’t like getting in the water, so he stayed in the A/C in the RV).

We spent quite a bit of time anchored in a little cove we found playing fetch with the dogs. Violet loves jumping off the boat and fetching things, with a huge boost in confidence provided by her life jacket. Maggie, the one who typically loves water, is afraid to jump off the boat or get back in, so she supervises. I don’t have a photo on my phone of either of them in the water, but here is one of Kelly in the water and Violet giving her a toy to throw.

Because Maggie is so afraid of diving in the water and getting back in the boat, but loves being in the water, and because we got so scratched up getting Violet in and out, we spent quite a bit of time over the weekend looking for a better way. There are a handful of products on the market – ladder attachments that act as stairs, attachments that act as platforms, DIY attempts that are either bulky and difficult to store or don’t look inherently stable enough to really consider (or both), and ultimately we decided on one of the more popular commercial solutions. The one semi-viable DIY solution I considered at length is heavy rubber matting supported by pool noodles, but ultimately storage and stability, like most other DIY solutions, caused me to eliminate it. The one we ended up ordering is unfortunately expensive, but in-line with most of the other premium solutions, at about $400. As I’ve found with most things (B)reak (O)ut (A)nother (T)housand related, it seems like a lot of money for what it is, and I still have a little bit of sticker shock.

It’s a free-floating ramp that you tie to the boat and doesn’t depend on the boat for stability, gives them a place to rest without actually having to get into the boat, and is compact enough to store without getting in the way when not in use. We can use the the same pump that we have for airing up the inflatable rafts and tubes to air it up, so doesn’t require any additional pumps to be stored on the boat. I also purchased two dock cleats to mount on the platform opposite the boat ladder, and some 3/8″ double-braided marine rope, to attach it with.

Regarding the boat itself, the outdrive has a couple issues I need to address, most notably a whine which I believe to be a shimming/ backlash issue, and some possible water intrusion – there was some foaming of the oil when I checked the dipstick on Saturday morning, but not enough to worry me, at least at that time. I bought a gauge and a .004 shim to try and fix the whine, but without measuring, the shim I ordered was just a guess. I swapped out the stainless 15×15 prop for a cheap aluminum 14.5×17 last Thursday, which the boat seems to like better.

During the sales that were going on for Independence Day, I grabbed a new pair of Tempress Elite seats, Springfield Camlock Slides, and folding cupholders to put in the above photo where old ones were mounted on either side of the engine box. I used vinyl spray paint – which you can see in the photo – to refresh the vinyl upholstery in the boat and avoid spending $1000 for now on labor and material. For $50, I’m thoroughly impressed in how easy it was to apply and how well it seems to be holding up to water, sunscreen, cleaners, and friction incurred during use.

Reese Sidewinder Update

by James on July 8, 2018 0 Comments

We’re about eighty miles in with the new Reese Sidewinder… just a few quick trips to the house and a trip to Jim Hogg Park in Georgetown. Enough for a general idea of how it’s going to work.

First, on the install, I ran into several issues. The pinbox is heavy, and I can’t get it into place by myself. I thought putting it in the truck bed and using the hydraulics on the RV and/or air bags on the truck to get it into position would work, but that proved only somewhat successful. I had to add a bottle jack to the mix to get the holes lined up, and get it bolted on. Since part of the routine maintenance with this is removing it annually, I’m going to have to find another solution. The leading contender right now is to pick up a cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight, and using my truck bed as a platform.

Aside from the weight, the pin box brackets on the trailer frame did not clear the Sidewinder when turning. I had to take an angle grinder with a cutting disc to the brackets on the trailer – not the most confidence inspiring move – and reshape them accordingly. Then used some spray enamel to coat the raw edges to keep them from rusting. The material I removed is really non-essential, being that it facilitates lowering the factory pinbox but does little else. We still have four 1/2″ bolts holding each side of the pinbox – eight total, as designed, with plenty of material around the holes the bolts run through.

I went back in after this and added large backing washers before the lock nuts – highly recommended.

The last hiccup we ran into is the pinbox requires a custom wedge to hold the king pin still and allow the trailer to pivot at the turret. You do not want any sort of movement at the pin, or else you risk multiple pivot points, and a dangerous experience. I chose the B&W hitch partially because there is a custom wedge designed specifically for the B&W hitch, but either due to the hitch tolerances, or the wedge tolerances (the wedge cost an extra $60 or so), the wedge would only lock against the left side of the hitch head, leaving a gap on the right. And while there wasn’t enough movement with that gap to cause issues in my limited testing, it wasn’t exactly confidence inspiring. Fortunately, the SideWinder comes with a “Universal Fit” wedge that works great and has full contact with the hitch head, so we eliminated that issue as well as the custom part that fits worse than the generic.

Now, onto the great parts: we can turn a full 90°, and actually a little bit more. There is no longer any concern about hitting the cab of the truck. Stability when towing seems to be about the same as with our old hitch, and surprisingly, so is the ride. I was expecting a notable change in ride quality going from the Trailer Saver BD3 to the B&W hitch with AirBorne pinbox, but honestly didn’t find much difference – the truck rides like it is unloaded with either hitch – which makes me wonder how much my Kelderman suspension is to blame.

The new hitch makes more noise than the old hitch, but even in the distance so far, has quieted up a bit. I expect that it will become progressively quieter as the wear plates break in. I didn’t feel comfortable that the turret bolts are only torqued to 45ft-lb, even though they aren’t load bearing, so I used some Loctite Blue to ensure they don’t back themselves out. Reese recommends checking them with a torque wrench before every outing, something I may do a few times but I don’t usually make it a habit of checking all the numerous nuts and bolts with a torque wrench every time I hook up. The Loctite should keep them from backing off, but I’ll follow up with the wrench for a while to be sure.

Overall, the install was a pain and I wouldn’t really recommend it as a DIY install for most users. It isn’t particularly difficult, but the process may involve some fabrication that a lot of people aren’t going to be comfortable with. My preliminary findings of the handling are excellent, though, and I do suggest this as a viable option for anyone with a short bed truck who doesn’t want a slider taking up room in the bed.

Hitch Maintenance

by James on May 1, 2017 0 Comments

My TrailerSaver BD3 hitch has been looking pretty rough. I spray the moving components with white lithium grease every trip, and coat the kingpin with heavy grease. It sits in the rain and sun, uncovered, when not in use. Maybe I should look at getting their $95 cover for it – but for now, I pull it and touch up the paint whenever it starts getting faded or rusty. The cover is vinyl and would probably only last a couple years, so I’m not sure it is worth it.

I also decided to add the slider back into the mix. Since adding the headache rack, I know of at least one time I’ve hit the truck and trailer together when backing. There just isn’t enough angle there to shoehorn the trailer into some of the tighter spaces without making contact. Fortunately, the headache rack does a lot better job than the C pillar at keeping form, and no damage was done. If I recall correctly, the slider weighs in around 80#.

I ordered a 2-Ton Engine Hoist from Harbor Freight when I found a coupon for 20% off and $6.99 shipping. To my door, it’ll run right around $200. I’ll be using it from now on to move the hitch and other heavy items in and out of the truck, so the hitch will remain on the table until it comes in.

Less-than-Lethal Protection

Safety

by James on January 7, 2017 0 Comments

With traveling, you never know where you are going to end up. We’ve inadvertently found ourselves staying in some sketchy places overnight.

We’ve never needed any means of protection, and hopefully never will, but we found a an interesting solution should we need it. In an RV you always have kitchen knives, and as part of our camping/prep equipment have a hunting knife and crossbow. But none of that is really practical for Kelly to wield in an emergency situation, nor would I want her to. I’m not paranoid enough to even keep the crossbow in the living quarters, it is just an interesting “toy” and might be used if I decide to go hunting one of these days and is pulled from basement storage for target practice on occasion. We’ve discussed carrying a pistol in the RV, but don’t want to worry about varying state laws and such.

I ran across an ad the other day for some less-than-lethal protection rounds for paintball guns, and found the idea interesting. Looking further into it, you can buy paintballs that are filled with various grades of pepper spray. When they hit a surface they explode into a cloud of pepper spray that causes irritation and temporary respiratory distress for anyone in the immediate area. They also have hard rubber, once again less-than-lethal self defense rounds, and are mostly unregulated.

I ended up ordering a couple tubes of ten of the pepper spray balls, in two different grades. And a 100 pack of the rubber rounds. To shoot them, I ordered a Tippman TiPX pistol that uses 12g CO₂ cartridges for propellant. I bought a few extra magazines for it to fill with each of the rounds, as well as one with alternating rubber and pepper balls, to be kept in the gun. It’s a massive beast of a pistol, with a .68cal barrel, the air cartridge just underneath it, and a seven round magazine in the grip.

Tippman TiPX gun for shooting less-than-lethal rounds.

It seems like these should be marketed more heavily than they are, as they seem like a real alternative to munitions for people who only buy guns for self defense.

As an aside, I’ve never really given Paintball a serious look before. Some of the equipment gets way out there, and it looks like a fun but expensive sport to take up. This will be fun to get some normal paintball rounds for, and may see more use than gathering dust in a drawer.

Dropped 5’er…

by James on November 13, 2016 0 Comments

Well, I hear it happens to everyone at some point, but I dropped the 5’er yesterday. We are using a Hensley BD3 hitch. Here is what it looks like.

You can see that at the top left of the hitch, there is a copper bar jutting out. It has three positions: 10 o’clock is unlocked, 9 o’clock is auto-lock, and 8 o’clock is locked. I store the hitch in auto-lock, and check it every time I’m in the truck bed for whatever reason. When it is in auto-lock, when you back into the trailer, you hear it pop into the locked position with a fairly loud bang, and it forces the jaws to remain closed. The king pin on the trailer itself is what actuates the jaws into the locked position so that what is effectively a metal block connected to the lever can slip between them. You can put a padlock through there for extra security. I usually do and double check the bar position when doing this, but since we were only going to drive around the block to test the brakes I didn’t bother with the padlock.

When I hooked up, I heard what I thought was the auto-lock pop, and got out, verified that the jaws were closed, even did a pull test! before pulling up the jacks, but did not check that it was in the locked position. I assumed, based on the other criteria, it was good. Going about 10mph, about 50′ later, I heard a loud bang. The trailer had pulled out of the hitch and the king pin was resting on my toolbox, and underbelly of the fiver resting on the side of the truck bed and the tailgate. When I looked at the hitch, it was in the 10 o’clock (unlocked) position!

I put down the landing jacks and pulled out from under it so I could survey the damage. I was very lucky – aside from the tailgate, the truck was fine. The toolbox was also sacrificed. But the trailer didn’t have any visible damage that I could see. It could have been a whole lot worse.

Looking online, there are tons of takeoffs for tailgates, but none in black that have lift assist (which is required to directly replace mine) to be found. I found some white ones with the same features as my OEM tailgate for close to $1,000, but they’ll still require painting. I don’t want to file an insurance claim on this but want to keep my out of pocket costs reasonable. I decided to take a look at aftermarket options. Most of the louvered tailgates out there do not preserve the OEM backup camera, but I use mine a lot and really want to keep it. I thought about retrofitting and aftermarket camera that mounts on the license plate frame to the OEM harness, but when I found a Husky aluminum tailgate that preserves it, I decided to go that route. The only issue is that the tailgate only comes in silver, but it is a “paintable” finish, so I picked up four cans of Dupli-Color Perfect Match automotive acrylic spray paint to match it to the truck. That paint is ridiculous at $12 per 8oz can, but cheaper than a professional job and on a louvered tailgate, should come acceptably nice.

The tailgate itself is fully featured, and retains lift assist and the backup camera. It uses a different locking mechanism, so the electric tailgate lock won’t work, but since it is a fifth wheel tailgate that won’t be an issue. The fifth wheel tailgates have a slot in them for the king pin to flow through, so you don’t have to open and close it when hooking up. It uses a toolbox keying cylinder, so once I get everything in I’ll rekey both of my toolboxes and tailgate to use the same key based on the keys used in the second toolbox I’m buying, since it has three cylinders.

I really liked my custom toolbox, but have been having issues with organization. In a huge chest like that, small items tend to get lost. Since I had to redo it, I decided to look at other options. I found a Brute fifth wheel toolbox fits all the needs nicely.

The Brute toolbox will sit right below the tonneau rails on my truck, actually underneath them, but does not open upward, so it can be a bit longer. In fact, it goes almost from one side of the truck to the other. It will block off the umbilical cord attachment point, so I bought a 2′ right-angle extension to run the plug up closer to the hitch. It is pictured above in polished aluminum, but I purchased it in black. There are a couple things, mainly my socket set and 1/2″ torque wrench, that won’t fit into the box so I will be storing them in the small compartment in the top of my RDS fuel tank. The drawer will be great for storing gloves, tape, and other small items I keep losing in my toolbox now. And it maintains the pass through area so that it won’t interfere with the trailer.

This was an expensive mistake, but could have been a lot worse since I’m getting out of it for around $1,300.

First Tow With New Suspension

by James on September 12, 2016 0 Comments

We took our time getting packed up before heading out of camp around noon today. I didn’t really know what to expect towing with the new suspension, our old suspension handled pretty nice when loaded and I was worried that the Kelderman would introduce more sway and instability into the mix. I couldn’t have been more wrong. I’ve heard the term – and even loosely used it myself – “don’t even know it is back there”, but that’s usually an “all things considered” term, as far as I’m concerned. Well I’m using it here in a different context: the truck feels identical when loaded or unloaded. I-d-e-n-t-i-c-a-l. If not for having to give it more throttle to get it moving, I really wouldn’t know it was back there. That translates to curves, twists, and turns, too. One of the most unsettling feelings I can think of while towing is the feeling of the rear of the truck being thrown to the outside of a curve when going around it too fast. There are a few curves on the way home that I’ve pulled over before, and going the speed limit on cruise always felt a little of that tugging feeling to the outside of the truck. On the first one today, I went the same speed as I usually do because I felt pretty confident in the handling by the time I reached it. On the second one I went a little faster, because I didn’t have the unsettling feeling on the first. And on another I went around the curve about 10mph faster than I usually slow to, as if I were unloaded. Still none of that feeling! I’m thrilled with the new setup both loaded and unloaded. I was very skeptical about it being worth the money, but am a believer now.

I took a photo while waiting on Kelly to check out at the front office, to note the stance of the truck with the trailer attached. The trailer sits perfectly level with the truck as well.

Suspension Installed

by James on September 10, 2016 0 Comments

We picked up the truck today from the suspension shop, and drove it back to our campsite over fifteen miles of curvy hill country roads. I added $100 in fuel (about 50 gallons, or 300#) and the hitch (160#) and went down some of the unpaved roads around the area. All I have to say is WOW! It’s a completely different truck and if it tows as well as it handles unloaded, it is well worth the cost. We’ve been running the same roads all week in Kelly’s 2016 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X, and my truck feels every bit as smooth as her truck on them, which is nothing short of amazing. It rides better than stock. The front is a little high for my taste, completely getting rid of the rake, but to lower it requires another alignment, so I’m going to leave it as it is for now. Overall we are very happy with it so far.

Radio Communications

by James on September 3, 2016 0 Comments

As part of the preparedness goals I have, I’ve been mulling over various radio communications technologies. I like the idea of a ham radio, but at the moment don’t want to deal with getting a technician’s license, and it is illegal to transmit over one without a call sign. Additionally, a lot of the information that I want from the radio is traffic conditions around me, which are better determined by CB. Alternately, I was looking at police scanners and such that provide local information about the areas around you, but don’t allow you to transmit at all. I don’t see myself talking over any of these devices often, but the idea of being able to use, for example — channel 9 on a CB which is monitored by emergency services — sounds like a winning point.

I narrowed it down to the following units:

Ham Radio: Kenwood TM-D710GA – This pricey little ham radio is very popular for mobile use, and seems really nice. Ultimately, I’m not really interested in most aspects of amateur radio and opted to skip this option for now. There are much cheaper options to start with to get into the hobby, and if I decide to in the future, I will start with one of those. Most likely something like the Baofeng BF-F8HP. Because it is a long range radio, it is ultimately the best option for remote communications, but just not anything that we require at this time.

Scanner: Uniden BCD536HP – This is yet another pricey unit. It’s expensive because it supports trunking, allowing it to listen to the majority of current emergency communications (as long as they are not encrypted), unlike a standard scanner. It also has all of the weather channels and alerting features I was looking for. However, it seems like it would be a better supplement than a primary comm system, since you cannot transmit on it, so I opted out.

CB: Cobra C 75 WX ST – This unit is inexpensive and would work really well in our truck. It’s a mostly all in one unit that has the same power as a fullsize radio (on paper, but reviews indicate otherwise) that is composed of a base-station module and a handset/control module. Since the truck I have doesn’t appear to have a good mounting location at first glance, this seemed like one of the best options. It doesn’t support weather alerts which are pretty important to me, and that is the primary reason I decided not to go with this one.

My interior is a different color, but as you can see there is little room for a full-size radio anywhere.

CB: Uniden BearCat 980SSB – This is the unit I ultimately decided to go with. While more expensive than the Cobra, it is significantly less than some of the other units I was looking at. Being a CB, I’ll have a range of 1-25 miles which is far more limited than a ham radio, but it is more likely to have useful chatter about surrounding road conditions. It’ll have access to channel 9 for emergency communications, channel 13 for RVers, and channel 19 for truckers. It supports NOAA weather channels, NOAA weather alerts, has an integrated SWR meter, and has generally great reviews. It supports sideband (SSB) communications, which I don’t think I will use, but it ended up only being a $4 premium over the Bearcat 880, which is the same radio without it.

I decided to go for a dual 4′ antenna setup, which is ideal for use with an RV. I picked up two Firestik II antennas, a RoadPro 18′ CoPhase Coax cable for dual antennas, two Firestik SS-3H springs in case the antennas ever have clearance issues and hit something, and two Firestick K4-A studs that I will use to mount them on the bed of my truck just in front of the Tonneau cover behind the cab. As I understand it, being close to the cab is a problem, but the 4′ length and dual setup should help to counteract this. I was considering the stake pockets but find this mounting option more aesthetically pleasing. In the end it should look somewhat like this, and the antennas will be easily removable (just unscrew them) when not in use:

Because of the full console in my truck, there aren’t very many obvious locations to mount a radio. I moved my cupholders forward, and will mount it in the center console, just behind them:

I’ll be routing the cables in behind the back seat, under the carpet, and up through the bottom of the console. The CB comes with a pivot mount that either elevates or suspends the unit, and in this case I will attach it in the elevation position and screw it into the console so that the mount faces the rear window of the truck, orientating the CB where it can be read from either of the front seats. It looks like there may even be enough room to add the scanner in the future if I decide I want one.

[amazonjs asin=”B00JK4IHIY” locale=”US” title=”Kenwood TM-D710G 144/440 MHz Amateur Mobile Transceiver APRS/TNC GPS/Echolink”] [amazonjs asin=”B00HZOW5K2″ locale=”US” title=”Uniden BCD536HP Digital Phase 2 Base/Mobile Scanner with HPDB and Wi-Fi”] [amazonjs asin=”B00005N5WW” locale=”US” title=”Cobra 75WXST 40-Channel CB Radio”] [amazonjs asin=”B007B5ZAES” locale=”US” title=”Uniden BEARCAT CB Radio With Sideband And WeatherBand (980SSB)”]

Security Camera

by James on September 3, 2016 0 Comments

I received this dash cam from my parents for my birthday this year, but already had one in my truck. Nonetheless, I had been wanting to rig up a dash cam to record behind the RV when in motion, and possibly another one as a security camera. This one worked perfectly for the latter. It should also be a good fit for the rear camera, but I need to find the best way to wire it up back there. It fits perfectly in the window that faces the door of the RV and is very difficult to see through the dark window tint, but picks up very good quality images, even at night. I use it in “Parking Surveillance Mode”, which is a combination of motion sensor and impact monitoring.

Hopefully we’ll never need the footage off of it, but when traveling we often don’t know who our neighbors will be or what kind of neighborhood we’ll be staying in until we arrive. This should provide some excellent insurance in case any unfortunate events occur.

When the shades are drawn it is very inconspicuous, and is tied into the 12V system of the RV.

TPMS Troubles, Continued

by James on September 3, 2016 0 Comments

When we upgraded to 19.5″ tires we were told that TPMS could be made to work. We spent a couple hundred dollars in addition to the wheels and tires to buy new TPMS sensors and straps to hold them in, since they are integrated into the valve stems and the Vision 81 wheels require stronger bolt-in stems. In reality, the thicker sidewalls and steel belting interferes to much and causes them to fail to reliably check in with the vehicle. In a lot of ways, I’m not overly concerned about knowing my tire pressures when running down the road. I stay on top of maintenance, check pressure often, and replace tires well before they are due. But without TPMS reliably working, I’m met with a prompt on the dash every time I turn on the vehicle that I have to acknowledge in order to see anything in the information center. It comes back randomly when driving, and there is always a light on the dash. Being that it’s a new and expensive truck, I’m not satisfied with that arrangement.

After a lot of research, I decided to install a third party TPMS system designed for RV and OTR truck use that gives pressures for both the tow vehicle and a trailer, if attached. These get around putting the sensors inside the tires by fitting over the valve stems. While I’m not overly concerned about these pressures as I mentioned above, I do realize their merit for safety, so I went ahead and used this as an excuse to purchase an EEZTire 8 sensor TPMS system. I will use this instead of factory system on my truck, supplement that system to track the trailer tire pressure and temperature as well, and will improvise a method to trick the factory system into thinking everything is fine with the onboard sensors.

The kit contains a screen that you mount on your dash, much like a GPS system, power cables, and eight external sensors that you screw onto the valve stems. It also comes with “anti-theft” devices that fit over the sensors to keep them from being stolen, but I found them to be gimmicky and very easy to work around. The concept behind them is to create a cylinder that twists around on the sensor rather than letting the sensor itself be twisted, however, you can easily decouple them from the sensors and grab onto the sensors directly. They are only useful against people who have never seen these systems before, or potential thieves that don’t take twenty seconds to inspect them.

It only took a few minutes to program all eight of the sensors to the unit, which is as simple as choosing a position, putting it into learn mode, and then holding the sensor next to the unit. You have to keep track of which positions the sensors go in so that you can use the visual readout that shows you the tires by location, with their pressure and temperature, and alarms you if the ranges you set for those two elements are exceeded. When the unit alarm goes off, it flashes a red light in the lower right corner and beeps constantly — very annoying but it does get your attention. I used a fuse tee to tie into an ignition controlled fuse and ran the hardwire kit up to the dash, where it neatly exits right behind the unit, which I attached to the windshield using the included suction mount.

One of the best features of the unit is that you can tell it whether or not you have a trailer attached, and it will monitor accordingly. If you need to boost your signal due to the length of your rig, they do have repeaters that you can buy, though based on reviews I opted to try without one first. Once again, we bought the eight sensor system, with one sensor for each of the four truck tires and the four trailer tires.

As for tricking the factory TPMS, I’m going to make a PVC cylinder and pressurize it to 70PSI, much like this:

The issue is that I’ve read the GM sensors tend to go to sleep when not in motion to save battery life, so I may have to improvise a way to keep them awake. One of my ideas is to dissect a TPMS trigger tool like this one…

… short the TX button so that it is always on, and hardwire it into the ignition of the vehicle. That way as long as the truck is started, it will be sending out the signal required to keep the sensors awake. Or I could rig it so that it only sends the signal every few minutes while the ignition is on. I’m also fairly certain that signal is only a constant 125Khz tone, so I may be able to improvise a cleaner solution with a cheaper radio kit. Another option I’m looking at is capturing the signal that the sensors put out, at 315Mhz, and replicating it with an Arduino so that no TPMS sensors are required at all. That will take a lot more time, though, and I’m wanting to at least implement a temporary solution this week. I may figure that out later.

[amazonjs asin=”B009BEF1WS” locale=”US” title=”EEZTire Tire Pressure Monitoring System – 8 Sensors (TPMS)”] [amazonjs asin=”B00A3UNYW8″ locale=”US” title=”Kent-Moore EL-50448 TPMS Tire Pressure Monitor Sensor Activation Tool”]

Category Archives

Jim Hogg Park

Reese Sidewinder Update

Hitch Maintenance

Less-than-Lethal Protection

Dropped 5’er…

First Tow With New Suspension

Suspension Installed

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Radio Communications

Security Camera

TPMS Troubles, Continued